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How to use active ingredients: niacinamide, BHA, vitamin C and peptides explained.

Collage of two photos of people with cleanser foam on their faces, one blowing a bubble from foam on her hand

Skin Diaries · Guide · Skindays London · Updated 25 October 2026

Niacinamide, BHA, vitamin C and peptides are four of the most useful actives in skincare. This guide explains what each one does, when to use it and how to layer them safely, with options we stock.

Actives at a glance.

Ingredient What it does When to use
Niacinamide Supports the barrier, evens the look of tone, refines the look of pores Morning and evening
BHA (salicylic acid) Exfoliates inside pores, helps with congestion Evening, 1 to 3 times a week to start
Vitamin C Antioxidant that supports brightness Usually morning, under SPF
Peptides Support hydration and the look of firmness Morning or evening

Niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a versatile, well tolerated ingredient. It supports the skin barrier and helps even the look of tone and redness.

Jorgobé Niacinamide Serum bottle

Jorgobé Niacinamide Serum

Why we love it. A lightweight serum that layers easily under moisturiser, which makes it a gentle first active for most routines.

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BHA exfoliants.

Salicylic acid dissolves oil, so it works well on congested or blemish prone skin. Begin once or twice a week and build up. Avoid broken skin and the eye area.

Oskia Violet Water BHA Treatment Tonic bottle

Oskia Violet Water BHA Tonic

Why we love it. A BHA in a refined tonic format, an easy way to add gentle exfoliation to an evening routine.

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Jorgobé BHA Exfoliator bottle

Jorgobé BHA Exfoliator

Why we love it. A straightforward salicylic acid exfoliant for congested or blemish prone skin, simple to build up from once a week.

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Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps support skin against environmental stress and brightens the look of dull skin. Apply after cleansing and finish with SPF.

Verso Super C Serum bottle

Verso Super C Serum

Why we love it. Vitamin C in an oil soluble form, a comforting way to add morning antioxidant support under SPF.

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Antipodes Glow Vitamin C Brightening Serum bottle

Antipodes Glow Vitamin C Serum

Why we love it. A friendly daily vitamin C that brightens the look of dull skin without any fuss.

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Peptides.

Peptides are signalling ingredients used for the look of firmness and hydration.

Jorgobé Multi Peptide Filler Serum bottle

Jorgobé Multi Peptide Filler

Why we love it. A peptide serum made for the look of firmness, easy to slot into morning or evening.

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The Light Salon Hydrating Peptide Serum bottle

The Light Salon Hydrating Peptide

Why we love it. Hydration and peptides in one easy everyday serum for skin that feels dry or tired.

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How to layer actives.

  1. CleanseStart with clean skin.
  2. Thin to thickApply thinner, water based products first, then treatment serums, moisturiser and oils.
  3. ProtectFinish with SPF in the morning.
  4. One at a timeIntroduce one new active at a time and give it two weeks.
  5. Listen to skinIf skin feels tight or stings, pause exfoliants and focus on moisture.

Frequently asked questions.

What does niacinamide do?

Niacinamide is vitamin B3. In skincare it supports the skin barrier, helps even the look of tone and can make pores look less noticeable. It suits most skin types and can be used morning and evening.

What is a BHA exfoliant?

BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid, and salicylic acid is the main one. It is oil soluble, so it can work inside pores, which is why it is often used for congestion and blackheads. Start one to three times a week and wear SPF.

Should I use vitamin C in the morning or at night?

Either works. Most people use vitamin C in the morning because its antioxidant action pairs well with SPF, but consistency matters more than timing.

What are peptides in skincare?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids. In skincare they are used to support hydration, firmness and the look of fine lines. Evidence varies by peptide, and they tend to be gentle enough for most skin types.

How do you layer active ingredients?

Go from thinnest to thickest texture: cleanser, water based serums, then creams and oils, with SPF last in the morning. Introduce one new active at a time and avoid stacking several strong exfoliating or retinoid products on the same night.

Keep reading.

Build your active routine.

Explore our serums and actives, one gentle step at a time.

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This guide is for general information and is not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or take prescription medication, check with your GP or pharmacist before trying new actives or devices.

Honest. Always. We only recommend what we truly believe in.